The Inn in Little Washington, VA, a little voyage back in time and exquisite experience

The Hungry Women are back!!!!

Well, no need to remind everyone that we just got hit by snowmaggedon.  Trying to watch that amount of snow melt equals to watching paint dry at this point.

However, look at the bright side, only 56 days to Spring! In the meantime, and since everyone must have cabin fever by now, we figured we might as well give you some good reading material J.

Two weeks ago, Sherry and I took a trip to Little Washington, VA. Her childhood friend Melissa had invited us to stay at The Inn (http://www.theinnatlittlewashington.com/) and have dinner with her and her husband Dick. Sherry had done a ton of research prior the trip, and may I say that she must had teased me every single day about the menu and the extensive wine list, for 2 weeks straight. I swear she probably knew the entire menu by heart by the time we hit the road.

Since the trip was about 2 hours and 30 minutes, we decided to let the camera roll as we are pretty good at entertaining ourselves with no help from the outside world:

We arrived at the Inn around 4:30PM. Melissa and Dick were already there in the lounge area, having cocktails while waiting on us. Upon our arrival, the dream began. We got greeted by a few door men, with the cutest outfits, which almost made you feel that you just took a trip in the past instead of VA.

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After taking my car keys and asking our names, they told us “we got it from here, please go inside where you will be greeted and redirected to the monkey bar”. Everyone that knows me has to know by now that I am a control freak, I am usually the one who says “I got this”, but not this time. I happily relinquished control and decided that it was time to let them pamper Sherry and I.

You are probably thinking by now; did she say Monkey bar?? no real monkeys there, wall paper filled with Monkeys, and a little stuffed one, greeting everyone on their way in.

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The nice Maitre D took charge as soon as we entered The Inn and proceed to take us on a tour by taking us to the Monkey Bar first and offered us a glass of Champagne:

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Walking through the Monkey Bar to the lounge area, we found Melissa and Dick surrounded by little treats, drinks and people waiting on them making sure that they had everything they need.  Sherry and I sat down and I got to meet these wonderful people for the first time. We chatted a while (while we were waited on like Queen Elizabeth (who was personally served by Chef Patrick O’Connell while visiting Virginia may I add (http://www.theinnatlittlewashington.com/patrick-oconnell.shtml ))).

Since our dinner reservation was at 7:30pm, we decided to go up to our room and change while checking out the opulence of that enchanted place:

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No words could describe how well The Inn was decorated and made you feel at home, which is why a video would show best our reaction to our room:

Overwhelming happiness took over all of our senses, I usually suck at selfies, but that picture describes our mood the best!

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We came back down and met our friends in the dining area, our hearts pounding with palpitations, knowing that Julia Child had her 90th birthday party at The Inn.  Personally, I would have LOVED to have been part of THAT celebration (https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/style/entertaining-tips-from-the-renowned-owner-of-the-inn-at-little-washington/2015/04/20/4c5f191a-e2cb-11e4-b510-962fcfabc310_story.html).

Julia Child

 

After sitting down, I was tasked with choosing a bottle of wine, the pressure was on! Going through the 87 pages of outrageously expensive and most fabulous wines I have seen in a long time, I settled for a bottle of Chateaux the Fieuzal 2004 Premiere Cru Classe 2004 for the itty bitty price of $105 a bottle (trust me, for that place, that is a very decent bottle of wine, average being in the $300’s, highest being $10,000!!!!).

While waiting on the wine, they brought over popcorn with shaved black truffle on top!!!!!

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I will let Sherry take over the description of our meal:

After the black truffle popcorn, we were treated to several small appetizers including a pimento cheese small bite, a very southern treat which reminded me of my second mom, Helen Dudley’s recipe, highly revered by all who knew her.

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A velvety hot pepper soup with a sambucca cheese ball arrived next. It was delightful!

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The “tin of sin” : American Osetra Caviar with Peekytoe crab and cucumber rillette.

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I have to take a moment to wax eloquent describing the “mousse of foie gras in a golden egg shell” served with sauternes gelee and a blood orange preserve. How can a chef create such a delicate, whimsical dish? How do you cut the egg so perfectly and then fill it with the light and airy mousse? This is food artistry at its most refined. A triumph!

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The carpaccio of herb crusted Elysian Fields baby lamb loin with “ceasar salad ice cream” shows you how creative and improvisational this chef can be. If this dish were music it would be avant garde jazz.

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Melissa bravely chose the chilled veal tongue with pickled root vegetables with horseradish ice cream. I am not sure what we expected, but it was very flavorful.

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I chose the grilled endive and bosc pear salad with pomegranate viniagrette. It was the only thing that didn’t wow me.

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Another selection off of the vegetarian menu was chosen by Melissa. It was a raviolo of spinach with a bantam egg yolk and white alba truffles. Decadent!

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My favorite offering was the sweet and sour Nantucket bay scallops with Shishito peppers! The perfect melding of flavors was exquisite! Definitely my favorite thing!

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Next, came the filet of Antarctic sea bass with lemon vodka sauce served with Lilliputian shrimp and pork dumplings…….so fresh and prepared perfectly.

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Now we should mention that the portions were so mathematically prepared that you’d be surprised to know that we were not stuffed!

Dessert was in order!

Before we even ordered, they brought us this to cleanse our palette, a delicate sorbet in a bed of short bread cookie crumbs (Chef O’Connell, you can cleanse my palette anytime 🙂 ):

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We then ordered a trio of custards, Lemon Posset, Butterscotch Panna Cotta and Chocolate Pot de Creme, they were all great, however, Sherry and I agreed, the Panna Cotta was our favorite:

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Then arrived the Chocolate, Caramel and Hazelnut Tartlet with Olive Oil Ice Cream (sounds weird doesn’t it, don’t be fooled, it is delicious, how the heck does one come up with that stuff!)

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Followed by the Southern Butter Pecan Ice Cream Sandwich with Bittersweet Chocolate and Hot Caramel Sauce (I bet you anything that you probably already read that twice, I know I did and I am writing it!):

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We must say that it is extremely rare in any restaurant to have the entirety of your meal served at the most perfect temperature, including the wine. Chef O’Connell and your staff: we bow down to you and yours.

Stuffed and happy, and while the staff knew that the Hungry Women were in the house (a good word from Melissa helped too), we were taken on a tour to the kitchen were all the magic happens:

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Let me pause for a moment and explain the picture below. These are the kitchen seats, 2 separate tables in front of the fireplace overlooking the cooks, which is called the Inner Sanctum. You can reserve these seats for the very affordable price of $395 for 4 people (yes I am being sarcastic, and yes that is just to reserve your spot there, has nothing to do with your dinner). If it wasn’t for the price, I would personally love to be served there, especially looking over the shoulder of whoever is making that egg that was served as an appetizer.

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At that point, we are officially STUFFED and decided that it was time to call it a night, already anticipating what they would have in store for us for breakfast.

Sherry fell in love with her sheets (she actually pulled her iPad, looked at the tag and found out that the name of the manufacturer was Garnier Thiebaut, France), and we came back to life around 7am.

After showering, we decided to take a tour of the town since our friends were still checking out the back of their eyelids. Very tiny place, we also heard that Chef O’Connell owns actually most of it. Here is the scenery of what we found around (they have their own garden, Lamas and Sheep!).

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During our stroll, we were greeted by a very friendly (fat) cat that followed us around for a while (I was very tempted to take him home!):

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We came back to the Inn and sat down for breakfast while waiting for Melissa and Dick to join us.

We started with tea (passion fruit and Chef O’Connell’s own blend of green and black tea):

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The place settings, the silverware and any other details on the table are just breathtakingly beautiful, no wonder I kept snapping pictures.

 

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A few words on the following picture: these are homemade jams and honey (each of them is described in the menu above), I can’t tell you which one was my favorite, I loved them all, so did Sherry.

20160110_102017The juices! Oh the Juices! Cantaloupe and Vanilla, Ginger and Carrot (I was surprised how much I loved that one!), Pineapple and Orange, Blood Orange and Grape Fruit. I was so glad that we each had our own set because there was no way I was sharing this with anyone, not even Sherry!

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Now this…..nothing unusual about the berries, but that white thing in the middle, is supposed to be a homemade Greek Yogurt. I want that cow, and I want that recipe because I swear, I never tasted a Greek Yogurt like this one, that was more like Creme Fraiche to me !
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Of course, I have to mention the Croissants, we are very picky about our croissants because of our friend Chef Jessica Knudsen. Jessica, they would make you proud!

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These are Sherry’s final words: In my 57 years, I must say that I have never had an experience more perfect than the Inn at Little Washington. It is as if every star aligns, every morsel of food trumps the last and the attention to detail is flawless. The wait staff is attentive but never intrusive. Your every wish is met with courtesy and a real desire to please. It is like you were invited to the finest European country estate for dinner but it is balanced with American comforts.

If you ever have the chance to spend the night or the weekend at this fabulous retreat, do not hesitate. A visit to the Inn should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is what dreams are made of.

If I had to put my two cents, I would first ditto what Sherry just said. I felt like they kept giving us presents (I think the only thing they didn’t do is massage my behind, other than that, PERFECTION). But, unfortunately, Perfection is pricey! but worth this experience of a life time. Special shout out to Melissa and Dick who made it extra special!

 

We promise we won’t stay away too long!

See y’all soon!

Sherry and Aida, The Hungry Women.

 

Pears in the Eastern Shore, who knew?

I don’t know about you, but we all want to shoot that Groundhog in the head. I know we didn’t get it as bad as the folks in Boston, but here in Balmore hon, we light weight, and we hate winter.

So we decided to give you some comic relief.

Back in late October 2014, I received a magazine at home that I am not subscribed to; called something like Coastal Style Magazine or something like that. While flipping through the pages, an ad caught my attention: there was an article about a Bed & Breakfast Restaurant in Easton called Bartlett Pear Inn, which was apparently Zagat Rated and in the Washingtonian Magazine as one of the top 25 restaurants.

Well damn, I don’t pretend to know every restaurants out there, but how come I have never heard of this place?? I immediately called my partner in crime and shared with Sherry my discovery. She never heard of it either! It screamed road trip right there! We have been passing through Easton many times over while going downy Ocean Hon, it really never occurred to us to swing by Historic Easton.

God Bless Open Table, we made a reservation for Friday November the 14th.

Needless to say that from October till that date, we were counting the days. We have been on their website on numerous occasions, and drooled many times over the menu items. That is what we call foreplay.

The day arrived, it was cold and rainy, we were so anxious to get there that we got there a little too early. Our reservations were at 8pm, we go there around 7pm. The obvious thing to do was to have a cocktail somewhere else and we chose the Tide Water Inn.

First of all, let us begin by saying that we are actually not sure if it was a November Easton thing, or just an Easton thing, but apparently pears are everywhere, in the drinks, in the food, we are still not quite sure what that is all about. But since pears were the theme, it was obvious that we should choose a pear drink, I got the Pear of the Dog (Pear vodka, St Germain, white cranberry juice), Sherry had the Barry French Martini (Gin, raspberry puree, fresh lemon and sparkling wine). Okay, you guys are probably asking yourselves, why is the French one not getting the French drink? Well duh, I am French, I don’t need to get a French drink, however,  my drink did contain St. Germain which is a French liquor, so there. We both agreed that my drink was better anyway.

Satiated, we decided it was time to venture out and reach our final destination.

Don’t they say that first impressions count? Well, let me tell you, as soon as you enter the Bartlett Pear Inn, beautiful old house, there is a cozy bar with a fire-place on the left hand side, very inviting, and the dining room on the right hand side. Once we announced ourselves (we were still early) and were given the choice to wait a bit at the bar, they didn’t have to ask twice.

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We sat right at the bar, near the fireplace, Eric was the bartender.

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He was making some kind of concoction with warm pear compote looking texture and was adding that to a drink. I honestly don’t remember what the drink was, but it smelled so good that the entire room was filled with that scent. We were presented with the wine list right away, and the first thing that caught my eye was a 2006 Saint Emilion Grand Cru. Well hell. We are way beyond the foreplay now. That was sex in a bottle (Sherry’s words) 69 shades of ruby.

We get escorted to our table by the lovely Lauren:

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I honestly think that we got the best table of the entire room. It looked like a Victorian turret, very intimate.

We noticed that the ceiling had this sound proof tiles (it is a bed and breakfast after all, people might try to get some sleep upstairs), there was lovely jazzy music playing.

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We, of course, introduced ourselves to Lauren as the Hungry Women, she gave us a little history of the place, and then she brought us butter.

She brought us BUTTER with Hawaiian sea salt on top.

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Let me repeat one more time: she brought us THE BUTTER.

After tasting that butter (in the meantime we did get introduced to our waitress named Kelsey, but they brought us THE BUTTER), we kind of threw away the bread (which was a really good baguette), and proceeded to eat THE BUTTER by itself with that damn Hawaiian salt.

Please meet Kelsey by the way (sorry Kelsey, you brought us BUTTER):

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When Kelsey came back and asked us how we were doing, we told her that we wanted to meet the cow that produced THE BUTTER and kiss her on the lips (or on the udders) and wanted to know where we could buy THE BUTTER. She went back to the kitchen and asked the question, came back and told us that it was shipped directly from NYC. Well hell, it looks like we needed to make a trip to NYC just for THE BUTTER, but we couldn’t possibly wait that long, so we asked if they had extra of THE BUTTER in their kitchen and we could buy some from them. She came back from the kitchen with a pound of THE BUTTER. We proudly put the BUTTER in our purse. And we didn’t even start dinner yet!

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We decided on the Chef Tasting Menu, which was a really good deal: $65 a piece for 5 courses.

Kelsey brought us the first dish: Octopus Garden: Grilled baby Sepia with curry-kaffir lime ice cream, Rigleigh Gardens mixed greens, squid ink tuile.

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If you are like me, you probably already read this description at least 3 times, and it still doesn’t make sense. I know that Tuile in French means Tile, and that is all I could make out of the description besides the curry and the mixed greens. Well don’t sweat it and take our word for it, it is divine, unusual, very creative and absolutely delicious.

Next course was the provident Farms Butternut Squash Soup: spice Pecans, Cinnamon Chantilly Cream, Maple Glazed Carrots.

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Okay: for all those who knows me, the C word is in there, well I didn’t even taste it. I am not going to elaborate on the dish and only show you what this dish did to Sherry, which is the highest culinary praise in her world:

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The Third Course was The Burgundy Truffle Mushroom Pappardelle: Truffle Shavings, Chapel Country Creamery “Talbot Reserve”  Mushroom Fricasse.

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Since we talking about 69 shades of ruby, let’s get a step further and say that we both orgasmed as the same time. I think that there was not enough shades out there to be able to count them all. Do you know that 1 truffle cost $100 a piece? They shaved the fresh truffle right on top of the parpadelle. Now, that is the best food porn ever.

Kelsey comes back and announce that she is going to bring us a palate cleanser which is not on the menu.  She brings an Apple Sauce Gelato with Meringue and Crushed Almonds.

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Girl, you can come and clean my palate anytime you’d like.

The 4th course was The Pan Seared Rhode Island Sea Scallops: Fried Panisse (don’t let your mind go in the gutter, because if I actually say that word, that would be how it would sound coming from me); which is a chickpea flour cake from the South of France (no freaking idea what that is), Chesapeake Organics Parsnip Puree, Provident Farms Pan Seared Brussel Sprouts, Cranberry Reduction.

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It is so pretty, so good, and we are officially out of shades.

And they had to finish us off with the Jurgielewicz (can’t pronounce it sorry) Duck Breast Cassoulet: Duck Confit, Stonehouse Farm Braised Pork Belly, Inn Cured Guanciale Great Northern Bean Ragout, Mirepoix Vegetables.

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I don’t know what to say. We are known as being afflicted with CanardVinitis (see previous blog) needing a support group. If there is duck, there is life or hope or something but you can be sure that the hungry women will have the duck. And we had it in all of its splendor.

By the time all was said and done (and eaten), with butter still packed in our purses, we did get introduced to all the staff members including the Chefs because we realized that we actually closed the joint!

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The coolest story ever was the staff gets fed every day around 5pm to experience the menu that will be served! Now I want to work there!

Overall. This was a phenomenal experience, we bragged about it ever since to everyone we know but never got to actually write this blog until now.

We decided to go back towards the end of January and take our friend Brenda there for her anniversary weekend. To our disappointment, the second experience wasn’t nearly as good as the first one. We always look for consistency when we blog about our culinary experiences, Granted we shared our experience with the staff, they apologized and did try to make up for it but it really didn’t come close to the November visit. If they are Zagat rated and listed in the Washingtonian Magazine, we have to believe that they deserve another chance. We would be willing to try it again.

So the question is, which one of you readers would like to come with the Hungry Women for our next Easton visit?
As always, Stay Hungry and until next time!

 

Aida and Sherry